A very ripe tropical-fruit nose is complemented beautifully by an intense smoky-toasty element. Pineapple, mango and caramel flavors stand out on the full palate: The smoky note resurfaces later, riding out the persistent finish. This is a sleek, stylish, but very solidly built Chardonnay. It pushes all of the right sensory buttons, with big body and great lines, like a ’56 Buick.